23: Machu Picchu

Today is the day…Machu Picchu. Our guide met us at the hostel and we made our way across town to the buses that take people to the entry gates. There was very little wait before we were on a bus and on our way. The narrow road winds back and forth up the mountain and the bus drivers wasted no time getting us to our destination. I haven’t yet decided if having bus drivers with enough experience to drive fast on that road is comforting or terrifying.

The hostel provided a bag lunch for us to take with so we had food when the time arrived. Food purchased onsite at Machu Picchu is very expensive. We hadn’t had breakfast that morning, so we ate half of the lunch on the bus ride and saved the other half for actual lunch time. Entry into the site was smooth and we were off to see what we could see.

There are many theories as to why Machu Picchu was built. Some religious, some political, some utilitarian. There is general agreement that it was used as a retreat for Incan emperors and as a meeting place for the great thinkers of the time including religious leaders, clan leaders, engineers/scientists, and military leaders. The population was in a constant state of flux as the majority of people there were visiting. That being said, it is very difficult to know for sure.

For me, the way engineering and belief systems were merged together in the construction of Machu Picchu is astounding. There are four mountains surrounding the site that have great significance to the Inca, and Machu Picchu was designed to align with each of those mountains and the sun in ways consistent with Incan mythology.  The Intihuatana stone, which translates to “place to tie up the sun” does not cast a shadow on the vernal or autumnal equinoxes. It is believed the Inca held ceremonies on these days to hold the sun in place, with the intent of insuring a good harvest and prosperity. This same stone shows alignment with the December solstice as it casts a triangle on the floor that highlights two concentric circles (there are multiple theories as to why). The understanding of astronomy and mathematics necessary to make these things happen is very impressive.  It is also believed the Intihuatana was carved at the highest elevation in the citadel so it could connect with all levels of Incan mythology.  Tourists hold there hands over the rock in an attempt to feel the energy generated from these connections.

All of that from one small spot in a city full of these types of stories and mythology.

The overall scale of the site and the engineering used in it’s general construction, such as interlocking notches and tabs on the stones, are very impressive as well. The fact they were able to even move some of the stones is indeed amazing! I have much to read and learn.

I will stop typing now and post some pictures…

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When we reached the area with general housing, workshops, industrial areas, and guest housing (the right side of the last picture above) we parted ways with our guide and sat on one of the terraces to eat our lunch. As long as people clean up after themselves the staff don’t seem to hassle people about eating, even though there is a no food policy.

We finished walking the site and caught one of the buses back down to Aguas Calientes. The original plan was to stay one more night, but we had seen everything we wanted to see and were both ready to be done with the touristy nature of the town. Instead of walking back to Santa Teresa we decided to take the train. The hour ride was a little over $30 each, but at least we had the experience of riding the train.

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We shared a taxi back to Santa Teresa with a dentist and his daughter that had come from Lima Peru to visit Machu Picchu. Once we were back in town, we recovered our luggage and checked into a room at the hostel. Dinner (at a different restaurant overlooking the street) was slow but very tasty. The pumpkin/squash soup was particularly good. We also had our first meal of a traditional Peruvian dish called Aji de Gallina (chili pepper chicken). We had this multiple times on the trip. At some level it has a comfort food appeal, at least for me.

Then, it was time for bed.  In the morning we will be headed back in the direction of Cusco, with some very interesting stops along the way.

Machu Picchu is one of the most visited sites in the world. Was it worth the time and expense…most definitely! While I didn’t feel any direct connection to the mysticism many associate with the site. the history is incredible. It is necessary to experience the site, along with the many other ruins in the area, in person to fully appreciate the scale of what happened there.

Till next time…Will