16: A Hike In The Andes

We woke up at the hostel just outside Coroico Bolivia. I didn’t sleep well because the bed was short with a footboard (I’m taller than most Bolivians), and the mattress left a bit to be desired. My height got in the way during the night as well. I made a trip to the bathroom and in my half-awake state forgot the doorframe was short. Door frame meet top of head. At this point my thinking is we grab breakfast and then hit the road. I’m ready to move on.

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17: Tiwanaku, The Lunar Surface, and Zebras

What do the three things in the title have in common?  Keep reading and find out.

We left La Paz on a day trip to visit the Tiwanaku ruins. The Tiwanaku were a pre-Inca civilization that lived in the area between 100-1000 AD. Their territory spanned parts of Bolivia, Peru, and northern Chile. We heard two different theories as to why they abandoned this location, and ultimately perished.

The first theory centers around the fact the Tiwanaku did not have a centralized form of government. When one of their most revered leaders died, there was great infighting between the clans within the Tiwanaku as to who would take his place.  This fighting lead to rifts that never healed and the individual groups where not able to survive on their own.

The second theory centers around a great drought that hit this area about the time the Tiwanaku disappeared.  The thought is they did not react quickly enough.

During our travels over the next few weeks we learned the Incans did not necessarily create many of the technologies and methodologies they are identified with, but rather picked them up other ancient civilizations such as the Tiwanaku.  In some cases they made small improvements, in others they actually made inferior products.  The primary reason the Inca get credit for being such an advanced society is they were the ones conquered by the Spanish, who were the first to formally document what they found.

This site is one of the more complete ruins from the Tiwanaku era.

The visit left as many questions as it answered.  Some believe Tiwanaku is the oldest city in the world. Others believe it was built by extraterrestrials who also created the Nazca Lines in Peru. Travel to Bolivia, tour the site, and draw your own conclusions.

The drive to Tiwanaku was the first time I tried to drive up and out of the valley to leave the city of La Paz. At one point I was driving up a steep hill and got stuck behind a line of cars at a stoplight. I think the angle of the hill was maybe 45 degrees, Tracy thinks it was more. The car behind me pulls right up to my bumper, and I’m driving a stick shift which means I could use a little rolling room in this situation. It was not my idea of a good time. We had to team up with Tracy releasing the emergency brake as I tried to get the clutch and engine in sync, without killing the engine…again. I could feel panic welling up inside as I was about to roll into the car behind me. There were many deep breaths, and I believe some profanity sprinkled in for good measure. We made it, multiple times during the trip, but I am surprised we didn’t burn out a clutch along the way.  

Do you remember a news story from a few years ago about people dressed as Zebras directing traffic?  I remember the story, but did not remember it originated in Bolivia.  Sure enough, Tracy and I are heading out for the day, and there they are…zebras directing traffic and helping people cross the street.  That has to put a smile on your face.

 

After checking out the zebras, we headed over to another local attraction that is on the to-do list for most visitors to La Paz. The site is called Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon). Over time, erosion has worn away most of the mountain surface in this area, leaving very unique geological patterns. The site had a different name until 1969 when Neil Armstrong visited and mentioned the formations look very similar to the moons surface. Not one of the more exciting stops on the trip, but somewhat interesting and a nice break.  

 

Do you know the answer to the question I asked at the top of this post?  Simple, right?  All of these things can be found in Bolivia! Tiwanaku, the lunar surface, and zebras.  Who knew?

Till next time!

Will